Southern Jewelry News

Jeweler’s Profile

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Decebmer

2007

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Article Autor: Mia Katrin

Armand Asher... A passion for pearls

“If diamonds or gold, rather than pearls, had been the focus of my father’s company, I wouldn’t be in the jewelry business today.” Armand Asher’s passion for pearls is infectious. As President, for years, of the Cultured Pearl Association of America, he has commanded the perfect platform to share his appreciation for this “most unique” of all the gems: “Pearls are ancient... their lore echoes through the ages. They are from living organisms, unlike other gems. Each one is different.”

His enthusiasm for sharing his knowledge makes Asher a natural teacher. Recently appearing with Martha Stewart on her television show in “Pearls 101,” he shared tips with the audience on “updating your grandmother’s pearls” - from care and restringing, to creating fashion-forward designs. As they went to commercial break, the directors commented, “You’re a natural. Have you done this before?”

Actually, Asher has been a spokesperson for pearls for years, generously sharing his expertise through the top jewelers’ associations: GIA, AGTA, AGS, RJO, etc. “So little is generally known about pearls relative to other gems, such as diamonds. My mission is to expand people’s awareness of this special gem.”

In today’s market, pearls are hot, and their popularity is increasing rapidly. “The quantity of pearls being sold doubles every ten years,” according to Asher. But these are not your grandmother’s pearls. “In the 1950s and ‘60s, pearls were very limited, basically to the traditional Akoya strand. My father, Albert Asher, was a pioneer in introducing the large South Sea pearls to the U.S. When they first hit the market here, no one knew what to do with them... they were so large! Early top designers such as David Webb and Arthur King helped popularize these gorgeous gems by accentuating their beauty in extravagant designs.” Today’s cutting-edge styles feature the full range of pearl sizes, colors, and shapes, from the unusual baroque to the large white and golden South Sea and dramatic dark Tahitian. Their opulence and palette beckons the imaginative designer with limitless creative possibilities.

“The fact that women are now buying more of their own jewelry has also added to the increased popularity of pearls - perhaps the most feminine of gems,” Asher notes. “It’s great that women are now so visible in the jewelry industry - as designers, manufacturers, and retailers.”

As a child, Asher used to visit his father’s store in New York City’s jewelry district and relish the “marbles” he was given to play with. Within a few years, he was a “runner,” making local deliveries. But born of immigrant parents, he was expected to “move up” in the world, to become a lawyer or doctor. At Cornell, Asher did pursue medicine, but soon found he was more interested in nutritional science - in promoting health, rather than analyzing disease. After attending medical school in Europe, he followed his love of food, opening a successful bakery selling cheesecake in upstate New York. But when his business partner was lured away to pursue a lucrative Wall Street career, it was a time of reckoning. Asher thought he would give his father’s business a try.
The rest is history. “It was fate.” Everything clicked, and for 24 years, Asher has been with the company his father founded, Albert Asher Pearls (580 Fifth Ave., 29th Floor, NY, NY 10036, www.asherpearl.com, a division of Albert Asher Inc.). “Pearls speak to me. You have to follow your passion.”
Serendipitously, the culturing of pearls resonated with Asher’s background in agriculture. “It’s fascinating to visit pearl farms around the world - in the Philippines, Fiji and Tahiti, New Zealand and Australia, China, the Sea of Cortez.... and explore the different societies and business models in each area. Actually, there is only a small group of people world-wide involved in the culturing of pearls.”

Currently, Asher is working with JCK Magazine, preparing an article on the “green” cultivation of pearls. “The environmental aspect touches me. A Philippine study has indicated that a mere one percent rise in temperatures world-wide will decrease oyster growth. Pearl crops also face obstacles from salinity, pollution, and monoculture cultivation, which decreases the crop’s resistance to new environmental threats.”

What tips does this world-renowned pearl expert have for the retail vendor of pearls? “There’s a tremendous growth opportunity. Most stores make less than 10 percent of their retail sales in pearls. Pearls, unlike diamonds, do not have a universal grading system. Although this might appear a disadvantage, it opens up a potentially greater profit margin. Pearls can be a cash cow.”

How to reap this advantage? “First, work with a very reputable pearl dealer. Someone who’s been in the business for decades, and visits the pearl farms regularly... a ‘pearl sightholder,’ such as we are. You must know and trust your supplier.

“Secondly, have your sales staff learn, learn, learn about pearls! Through books, GIA courses, newsletters, going to pearl seminars at shows and talking to pearl dealers there they should continually update their knowledge. This gives confidence to the client. Also, rather than having customers focus on lab certificates, as they do buying diamonds, let them know it’s OK to be more trusting of the salesperson’s own instincts.”

Above all, “You have to be passionate about what you do. This is the most important factor in any type of sales. Many people in the jewelry business start out with a real love of gems and beautiful jewelry, but as time goes by, they get wrapped up in mortgage payments, the college fund for the kids... I want to rekindle that initial joy of the wonder of gems, the beauty of exquisite jewels.”
If Asher’s life is any indication, he has already succeeded. He is a perfect embodiment of his own philosophy, spreading knowledge and appreciation through his passion for pearls.

Mia Katrin is an award-winning, internationally celebrated couture jewelry designer, specializing in one-of-a-kind and limited edition high-end necklaces with precious gems in 18-24 karat gold and platinum. Her Collections, which have been worn by A-List Hollywood celebrities, are featured in many top galleries and stores throughout the country, where she regularly hosts Trunk Shows. Contact Mia via her website, http://jeweljewel.com, e-mail info@jeweljewel.com or call (877) JEWEL-MY.