Southern Jewelry News

Observations from Tucson

10:22

March

2008

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Article Autor: Diana Jarrett

The Story Behind the Stone

Once again, gem lovers the world over have invested days or even weeks of their time in the desert town of Tucson for hours of frenetic trading at the world’s largest gem bazaar. This star of international gem shows is simply called TUCSON for those in the know.

Now that the shows are packed and gone, what will this year’s fair have revealed to us about the hottest trends at Tucson? Veteran attendees and seasoned exhibitors alike jump in with their forecasting skills about the must-have stones and styles to look for in the months ahead.

Luxury show, Centurion 2008, preceding the AGTA GemFair™, was to be the place for ogling opulent eye candy. Red rose and pink gold are still in high demand. Sophisticated combinations of vintage styles reinterpreted for the modern woman in larger proportions were rendered in red gold and other precious metals. One such stellar piece came from Caressa Jewelry who went a step further by pairing vintage inspired red gold with gems in companion colors, like pale pink morganite and champagne diamonds with a dramatically feminine result.

Tucson regulars continued to see the focus placed on diamonds, both loose and in mounted goods. So, it was particularly helpful that respected gemstone author Renée Newman released her revised edition of the “Diamond Handbook, A Practical Guide to Diamond Evaluation” in time for the shows. Her section on colored diamonds is essential to professionals and consumers alike in fielding the myriad of subtle characteristics that contribute to a diamond’s value.

A recurring theme this year was the trend to “Mix it Up.” From the toniest couture collections in the designer salons, to the boisterous activity on the GJX floor and beyond, manufacturers showed a fondness for mixing colored gemstones in wild abandon. What were deliriously snapped up this year were opulent jewels in a riot of colors - five, six or more on the same piece. And not only that, but pearls, faceted colored stones, opaque cabochons were all artfully arranged on one dramatic brooch or bunched up on chunky colorful bracelets.
“Mixing it up” with panache was Ricardo Basta, creator of extravagant jewels with a twist. Basta is first and foremost an artist for whom jewelry is a fanciful outlet to showcase his sculpting expertise. So, many of his deluxe brooches have a dimensional effect that thrills the spectator. Basta’s vibrant gemstone combinations and other unexpected materials elevate the craft of bench jeweler to a pinnacle. His styling is definitely for the cognoscenti.

Award winning Robert Wander, another Tucson favorite, is expert at combining many colors into a single luxurious jewel. No doubt this Honolulu resident draws inspiration from nature in creating these no-holds-barred breathtaking pieces. Wanders’ innovative use of colored stones, often in their original rough shape has earned him a loyal following at Tucson.

Another trend getting huge acceptance was the push for a more sculptural organic look to jewelry. When it comes to gemstones, this style directs the viewer to dwell upon the unique natural shape of diamonds and colored stones as they occur in nature.

A leader of the “uncut” gemstone look in distinguished jewelry was seen at avant-garde designer Todd Reed’s booth. No neophyte to this haunting style, Reed has been handcrafting original designs featuring rough gemstones for over 18 years. His clients are collectors with a keen sense of the aesthetic and a proclivity for the world of fine art.

Shopping lists in hand, most buyers generally knew what they needed to buy. But some of the fun lies in not knowing what would turn up. That surprise element is always in force at Tucson, where new players emerge seasonally, and the old-timers vie to keep their place in the sun. That means there will always be something one hasn’t thought of. The wise buyer tucks a little extra money away for just such a discovery.

One could discover the unexpected at the booth of Tucson mainstay, Dr. Laurent Sikirdgi of Gem France. One of his unique items was a gold and diamond accent ring featuring a rare oval brilliant cut andesine gemstone. “It was strongly-yellowish-green, turning red under another light! The only one I had.”

Fashionistas have plenty to choose from with these hot trends at Tucson this year. Whether one’s taste runs to the profusely colorful combinations exhibited in festive jewelry, or opting for the organic look, designers brought something for everyone. There’s one thing we can count on at Tucson; we’ll always experience change – and have a fun ride along the way.

Graduate Gemologist Diana Jarrett is also a Registered Master Valuer, and a member of the National Association of Jewelry Appraisers. Her regular columns appear in the NY Mineralogical Club Bulletin and Colored Stone Magazine. Contact her for appraisals or personal appearances at info@dianajarrett.com. Learn more by visiting her web site www.dianajarrett.com.