02202017Mon
Last updateTue, 14 Feb 2017 4pm
Big idea for little diamonds

Big idea for little diamonds

HH Gold turns retailers’ melee into by-the-inch cr...

Retailer Roundtable: Is the bead trend over?

Retailer Roundtable: Is the bead trend over?

Q: Is the bead trend over?

“The bead trend is defin...

Jewelers Helping Jewelers

Jewelers Helping Jewelers

The Southern Jewelers Guild takes a look at the exp...

Paying tribute to one of the oldest bench jewelers in the southeast

Paying tribute to one of the oldest bench jewelers in the southeast

John Bosco:  May 23, 1924 - December 14, 2016

The f...

Other News

Printing up compassion in 3D

Printing up compassion in 3D

There is no remedy to cure the tragic hurt caused by the loss of a child. For a grieving parent, the best one can hope for is time to process the pain and a few happy memories. Time comes easy, but for parents of stillborn children, happy memories ar...

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Industry Events

Continental Buying Group conducts live, on-site testing for lab grown diamonds at January Show

Continental Buying Group conducts live, on-site testing for lab grown diamonds at January Show

GSI & G-Cal tests find 100% of vendors in compliance

As part of its ongoing commitment to excellence, the Continental Buying Group (CBG) conducted on-site testing of live diamond goods during the January 23-25, CBG Show in Orlando.

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On The Move

Noble Display and Packaging merges with J. Grant & Co.

Noble Display and Packaging merges with J. Grant & Co.

Noble Group brings greater service, products, pricing for independent jewelers

(CEDAR GROVE, N.J.) - Noble Display and Packaging has announced the completion of its merger with J. Grant & Co., a display and packaging company known for designing and...

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What's New

Sterling Reputation releases 2017 Supplement

Sterling Reputation releases 2017 Supplement

Sunrise, FL-based supplier of fashion-forward, high quality sterling silver jewelry, Sterling Reputation is pleased to present it’s new 2017 supplement. The new supplement features 20 beautiful new styles, many tailored to the Millennial generation.

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Featured Articles

Retailer Roundtable: How was your Christmas season and what were your hot sellers?

Retailer Roundtable: How was your Christmas season and what were your hot sellers?

Q: How was your Christmas season and what were your hot sellers?  

“The actual numbers are still being tabulated, but what I can say is the numbers are close to 10 percent over last year’s holiday season. Which was quite a surprise as the months and we...

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Latest News

Printing up compassion in 3D

5 DAYS AGO
Printing up compassion in 3D

There is no remedy to cure the tragic hurt caused by the loss of a child. For a grieving parent, the best one can hope for is time to process the pain and a few happy memories. Time comes easy, but for parents of stillborn children, happy memories are often in short order.

Srdjan Urosev hopes his com...

Readmore

NRF forecasts retail sales will increase 3.7- 4.2 percent over 2016

5 DAYS AGO
NRF forecasts retail sales will increase 3.7- 4.2 percent over 2016

(WASHINGTON, D.C.) - The National Retail Federation (NRF) released its economic forecast for 2017 last week, projecting retail industry sales, which exclude automobiles, gasoline stations and restaurants, will grow between 3.7 and 4.2 percent over 2016. Online and other non-store/online sales, which ...

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Continental Buying Group conducts live, on-site testing for lab grown diamonds at January Show

11 DAYS AGO
Continental Buying Group conducts live, on-site testing for lab grown diamonds at January Show

GSI & G-Cal tests find 100% of vendors in compliance

As part of its ongoing commitment to excellence, the Continental Buying Group (CBG) conducted on-site testing of live diamond goods during the January 23-25, CBG Show in Orlando.

Readmore

Estate jewelry speakers announced for 2017 Northwest Conference

18 DAYS AGO
Estate jewelry speakers announced for 2017 Northwest Conference

 

The Northwest Jewelry Conference (NWJC) has announced the lineup for its fifth year of small group estate jewelry education August 11-13, 2017 in Seattle, WA.

“Our selected instructors are asked to give insightful and original presentations to challenge a passionate group of antique and period jewel...

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Noble Display and Packaging merges with J. Grant & Co.

5 DAYS AGO
Noble Display and Packaging merges with J. Grant & Co.

Noble Group brings greater service, products, pricing for independent jewelers

(CEDAR GROVE, N.J.) - Noble Display and Packaging has announced the completion of its merger with J. Grant & Co., a display and packaging company known for designing and manufacturing Ice Grip displays, modular Breakawa...

Readmore

RDI Diamonds achieves Responsible Jewelry Council certification

11 DAYS AGO
RDI Diamonds achieves Responsible Jewelry Council certification

(LONDON) - The Responsible Jewelry Council (RJC) has announced that RDI Diamonds, Inc. has achieved Certification against the 2013 Code of Practices (COP) at its trading office in New York.

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Sterling Reputation releases 2017 Supplement

5 DAYS AGO
Sterling Reputation releases 2017 Supplement

Sunrise, FL-based supplier of fashion-forward, high quality sterling silver jewelry, Sterling Reputation is pleased to present it’s new 2017 supplement. The new supplement features 20 beautiful new styles, many tailored to the Millennial generation.

Readmore

ASHI Diamonds launches Bridal 2017 Marketing program

5 DAYS AGO
ASHI Diamonds launches Bridal 2017 Marketing program

(NEW YORK) - ASHI Diamonds is pleased to unveil its 2017 Bridal Books - Elegance Redefined. ASHI’s bridal line caters to “any bride’s hunt for the perfect one for her,” said Rajeev Pandya, partner of ASHI Diamonds. “Whether it’s the intricate milgraining, delicate lattice work, or soft curves, ASHI’s...

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Analyzing the aftermath - the JADE Act

Embargo on gemstones originating from Myanmar, formerly Burma is nothing new. But the backlash, and divisive commentary in the wake of the latest officially implemented ban is bound to polarize many members within the gem trade. And oddly enough, all those voices have a point - and a valid one.

Aimed at penalizing the Burmese ruling junta through embargo, the US government had banned products coming from Burma since 2003. However the broad language of that earlier sanction permitted the importation of Burmese-origin gems that were cut or polished elsewhere. On July 30, 2008 President George Bush signed into law the Tom Lantos Block Burmese JADE Act, restricting the import of precious Burmese gems and stones.

Some observers claim the previous sanctions had a loophole. Others argue it was no loophole - that the earlier ban simply expressed a different set of parameters for gemstone importation. So, unlike the former embargo, the JADE Act ban now clearly states that Burmese-origin jadeite and ruby, including those which have undergone “substantial transformation” elsewhere, are to be banned from coming into the US. The only exception would be Burmese gems brought in for ‘personal consumption.’

While the industry contemplates these new developments, the global gemstone community already voices disparate opinions. Director of Public Affairs for Jewelers of America (JA), Peggy Jo Donohue assured that JA will make certain that its members clearly understand that no rubies or jade mined in Burma may be imported legally into the U.S. And, Donohue added, to be certain, “Jewelers should seek written assurance from their suppliers that they will not knowingly supply these banned gems.”

The comprehensive nature of the JADE Act, spelled out in lengthy legalese, may appear to be a daunting task when it comes to sorting it all out. But the Jewelers Vigilance Committee (JVC) has streamlined this concern with information clearly spelled out on their website for those interested - www.jvclegal.com.

It’s impossible to prove some stones have been in the US prior to the implementation of the JADE Act, certain dealers worry. Old stock - really old stock - may not have the paper trail that the current legislation demands in order to sell existing stock that may have come from Burma - or not. Proving the origin is a hotly debated topic where this new ban is concerned.

Some people mistakenly believe the determination of origin, not how long it has been in the US, is at least a done deal. Inclusions and fluorescence clues some feel, are fail-safe and will tell if a ruby originated in Burma. Not so fast, warns Christopher Smith, vice president and chief gemologist, of American Gemological Laboratories (AGL).

Burmese rubies are found in three major deposits; the Mogok Valley, Mong Hsu and Namya Zeik. Yes, it’s true that a number of indicators can assist in separating ruby from Burma and ruby from other sources around the world. These indicators are various inclusion and spectroscopic features, internal growth structures, and chemical composition. Still, since there are ruby deposits in other locales whose geologic environs almost mirror that of Burma, in many instances, “distinguishing these sources from Burma ruby can range from straight forward to very difficult.”

Noted ruby and sapphire authority Richard Hughes believes that the statistics involving the sale of Burmese ruby are grossly misleading. “Claims that the junta earns $300 million a year from the sales of gems are based upon gross gem auction proceeds, but in reality many of the lots sold at auction are owned by private parties, not the junta,” Hughes states.

Time will tell whether this law which intends to send a punitive message to the brutal ruling junta of Myanmar achieves its desired effect. No one, as Douglas Hucker, CEO of American Gem Trade Association (AGTA) understands it, wants to see the innocent victims of this legislation become the fall guy to this ban. “My concern,” Hucker stressed, “is that this Bill is going to hurt the wrong people like the artisanal miners, instead of the junta.”

jarrett-nov

 

La Pierre Precieuse, Montreal, offers fine Cambodian ruby as an alternative to the banned Burmese ruby.
Photo courtesy of La Pierre Precieuse. Burmese Ruby crystal, courtesy of Will Heierman, www.corunduminium.com.

 

The ripple effect of the Burmese ban spreads to Thailand, and surrounding nations which traditionally cut these stones. Gem dealer Bill Larson, president of Pala International, spends a great deal of time in Asia. “These are independent (Burmese) miners who supply the Thais; and the dealers all come to Thailand unofficially,” Larsen points out. So he feels that ruby sales do not enrich the Burmese government. “Who it will affect are the thousands of Thais in the cutting and jewelry industry.”

Montreal based gem dealer Pramendra Baid, of La Pierre Precieuse, Inc., sees a closer-ranged unintended consequence. Baid forecasts a flood of Burmese goods having entered the US ahead of the ban enforcement, resulting in an unwanted price hike for Burmese goods. The residual challenge, Baid predicts will be in serving the upper tier of the market. Nothing else quite looks like Burmese ruby, he says. Ruby from other countries lacks the color saturation and clarity as fine Mogok ruby. Baid also foresees difficulties with implementing the new documentation requirements for Canadian based importers and manufacturers who sell to the US because “origination documentation for previously purchased rubies (both Burmese and non-Burmese) will be difficult if not impossible to obtain.”

In the end, all of these well founded concerns are mitigated by the cohesive unity of trade members not wishing to support a government whose human rights abuse records are so abysmal. And the various voices all make their point. JA Director of Public Affairs Donahue affirmed, “Until genuine democratic reform becomes a reality in Burma, such sanctions are necessary to send a clear message from American jewelers to the ruling military regime.”

Graduate Gemologist and Registered Master Valuer Diana Jarrett is also a member of the National Association of Jewelry Appraisers (NAJA). She’s a frequent lecturer at conferences and trade shows. Jarrett serves as Colored Stone Editor for Rapaport Diamond Report; with other works regularly appearing in trade and consumer publications. Contact her at This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.">This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. or visit her website: www.dianajarrett.com.


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